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When assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their modest shop achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.